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Novels have been written here, music scores conceived Cuban songwriter Frank Delgado even wrote Coppelia in homage , and — this being Cuba — perhaps even babies. David, of course, is eating chocolate. The two flavours have ever since been loaded with coded meaning about sexual orientation. Lourdes Mulen Duarte, a statuesque middle-aged lady with skin the colour of aubergine laughed then looked around. Cubans can be some of the most voluble, talkative people in the world. Slurping helado is a heads-down, communal homage. Conversation at the shared tables barely rises above a murmur, as if Coppelia truly were a cathedral.

This was a good day. Seven flavours were posted on boards by the entrance.

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But it being late afternoon, only three were now available, including rich, creamy mantecado made with egg yolks. On hot days, residents of Havana wait an hour or more for a bowl of ice cream at Parque Coppelia.

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Prior to the Revolution, Vedado was a chic upper-middle-class district and Cuba a highly stratified society with a vast impoverished underclass, mostly black, that rarely got to taste ice cream. When it first opened in , Parque Coppelia served 26 ice cream flavours, an homage to the launch of the Revolution on 26 July Then came the Special Period — the time of terrible scarcity caused by the collapse of the Soviet Bloc.

Cuba lost its main supplies of butter and powdered milk. Unable to produce enough milk itself, the Cuban government had to choose between butter and ice cream. A hot climate. A feverish addiction to sugar.

It was a no-brainer. Rations were reduced. During a recent sojourn in Havana, Coppelia became part of my daily routine. I was a creature of habit, always choosing an outdoor section where the sunlight filtered down through the royal palms and jagüeyes banyans.


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One day, for a change, I joined the line at the corner of L and 23 Streets for the spaceship pavilion. We filed down a narrowing path that led to the pavilion. The ground floor — open on all sides — featured a curved marble-topped counter with barstools, diner-style. Rising from the centre, a spiral staircase coiled like a nautilus shell to the mothership above.


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I emerged beneath a dome, stunning in its architectural beauty, slanting over a four-leaf clover of circular rooms separated by stained-glass panes and open to the alfresco parks below. Entendemos que el cruising es exclusivo de chicos. On November 8, , was born this blog to publicize the cruising areas of Mallorca. We will update the information.

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And then of course, baking with love. All in all an extraordinary labor to give bread its sacred status again as the humanity most essential food.

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